For What Its
There was a
dual "corvette" style master cylinder on the car. Combined with a
stock style proportioning valve. It worked, but not quite
what I wanted. Also the plumbing for the stock style
proportioning valve took more room in the engine compartment. I
wanted something a little better. (I have big hands and need all the
room I can get) The car has front disc brakes and rear drums.
cylinder. It takes up a lot
less room and has rear pressure adjustments
bench bled the master cylinder in the car. After bolting it
in, I hooked up 2 hard brake lines that are a C shape. They go
back into the bowl about 2/3 of the way. The ends are submerged
in the brake fluid. That way they don't pull air back in when the
pedal comes up. They have to be bent to get them into the bowls and
bent back out when done. Bend the ends back up before you unbolt
Some use rubber lines, but I like the hard lines. No
bumping them loose or knocking them out of the bowls.
Brake bleeding lines/tools.
I had my wife help with the brake pedal and it
took about 10 minutes to get all the air out. Combination of
full, slow pedal moves and quick, short little pumping. The
internal valving takes more care than normal to get all the air
out. CPP recommends a curve tip syringe to aid in getting the air
out. See installation instructions on the MCVP-1.
it uses 3/16 line connections front
and rear that exit under the master cylinder. No searching for
all the special fitting sizes to make it work. The brake lines
in the car are a lot cleaner with 1 or 2 bends less than normal.
I replaced 5
feet of the rear line since I wanted to re-route it. I used a
hand vacuum bleeder to get the air out
lines at the wheels. When I asked CPP they said a residual valve
for the rear brakes wasn't needed if the master cylinder was higher
than the rear brakes. I still have one in line for the rear drum
brakes. If there are any problems I will update.
Once bleeding was done, the pedal was perfect.
Instructions for adjusting the car braking come with the master
cylinder. In my case the rear pressure adjustment
ended up cranked down about 1 1/4 of the 1 3/4 total adjustment of the
CLW travel on the 1/8th
allen screw adjuster. Only about 1/2 turn of the CLW travel
left. 1/2-1/2 is 0, I didn't need to adjust the big screw. Read
the instructions that came with the Master Cyl and you may understand
the last 3 sentences. The pressure needed to lock up the rear
depends on the brake size, type of brakes, slave cylinder size and the
style proportioning valves aren't adjustable so this is a big advantage
if I change, tire size etc. All that is needed after
a change is to redo the adjustment.
The car stops better than it did before. It is a
much cleaner look in the engine bay. Also more room without the
old proportioning valve and related lines. An advantage in the
engine bay when there is a V8 in there.
Stock style master cylinder when
there was power brakes needed a bump in the fender on a 1967 Chevy II.
1967 was the first year of the dual master cylinder. The CPP
master cylinder was short enough I didn't need a bump. Also I don't
need the factory clearance for assembly.
Motoring, VHubbard. Last Update Dec 2020.
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