With headers or for other reasons,
you may want to add a remote solenoid to drive the starter.
The following is an outline of how I did it and how we did it on race
cars. Some Ford starters were wired this
way stock. This has
only 1 wire running down to the starter and it is only energized while
starting. Less chance of shorting against headers and fewer wires
underneath. It uses what is normally called a "Ford Solenoid" as
the remote solenoid.
The jumper wire on the starter solenoid requires a large end for the
battery terminal and a small end to the start terminal on the starter
solenoid. When the main wire that powers the starter is
energized, the solenoid is energized at the same time. Starter
runs. When the remote solenoid is powered down, no power to the
starter and the starter disengages. This is a picture of the jumper
on my starter.
The Ford Solenoid as it is called, can be mounted up high on the
firewall or fender as you desire. Make sure the mount point is grounded
well or it wont work.
I have not had any run
on problems, but some people warn of a 1-2 second starter
run on after releasing the key. This is with some permanent
magnet starters. The run on is usually noisy with a grinding
sound. The starter may try to stay engaged in the flywheel
because the starter might act like a generator after power is shutoff
and back feed enough voltage to keep the solenoid partially
energized. A sticky solenoid or misaligned starter gear teeth
that do not disengage easily may cause or add to a run on also. I have not had this
problem with my starter.