I had to get the 67' so it is drivable, to move it in and out of the garage easily while doing the parts swaps. There was a problem with the clutch pedal and how it was adjusted.
This is a general diagram of how a mechanical clutch pedal works.
There was 0 free play on the clutch pedal. It was always engaged and the throw out bearing was putting pressure on the clutch. It released almost immediately making it hard to control releasing the clutch when all the action was with the pedal at the top of its movement.
What previous owners had done is adjusted the linkage so it was permanently engaged. They had no spring on the clutch fork. The fork rod wouldn't fall out adjusted that way, but clutch life would only be a few thousand miles or less. Good thing they sold it before doing much driving. I had to shorten the linkage over 3/4" to get the proper 1/2" of free play on the pedal. That is a LOT of adjustment.
I also found 2 big springs pulling the clutch linkage back connected to the front cross member. Only 1 was needed. with 2 spring ends jammed into the linkage pivot joint it was jamming the linkage also. There was NO spring from the clutch fork to hold it against the fork rod linkage. That is what that little hole on the outside end of the clutch fork is for, a spring hook. There should be a clutch spring from the clutch fork that hooks to the frame if there is room. Similar to the diagram above.
When there isn't room for 1 spring to do the job, a smaller spring is used that hooks between the clutch fork and the adjuster on the fork rod linkage. A second spring to pull the linkage back is also used. This keeps the fork rod linkage from falling out of the clutch fork and keeps the linkage from putting pressure on the clutch fork when not engaged.
Usually on stock designs there is 1 spring from the clutch fork to a place on the frame or body. With headers and things in the way, it may take 2 springs, that is what my car ended up with.
The clutch feels normal now. Much better for driving and shifting.