For What Its Worth
Front Springs
My Assembly
Manual lists 7 springs that were used based on engine and accessories. It gives the part numbers but not the rates.
My 66 had a 6 and
now has a V8-283. Looks like original
springs. Bushings are tight, but time etc. has caused the front to drop
about
1.5" from stock height. The back is
at stock height, but only after using shackle extensions.
Everyone likes the looks, but it doesn't
handle well in corners. The front rides
heavy and I want to correct this with new springs when I redo with poly
bushings etc.
Heavier springs
will not eliminate the roll, but stiffen overall ride. Too heavy and
the spring
action is gone.
New springs at
the stock rates are usually what is needed when dealing with 10-40 year
old
stock springs. Coil springs will loose
their tension when used for many years and 100,000+ miles.
Normally they fade together and it is a slow
process so most people don't notice. The
mono leaf rears are notorious for sag/fade.
Sway bars are better
at stopping roll while maintaining the ride going straight. If you want less roll, get a stiffer/bigger
sway bar. Some roll isn't bad. It helps transfer weight to the drive
wheel
that needs it in a turn.
Suspension setup
depends on what you are doing, street or drag.
I like street/circle track setups.
Front springs install
When I took out
my stock front springs for replacement the ends of the top and bottoms
of the springs were exactly 180 degrees apart. Everything
was
fitting like the
factory manual said it should.
The replacement
springs I got were about 170 degrees apart. These were supposedly the best of the best.
I aligned them to the stop on the lower
spring mount, an 1/8th inch from the stop.
On the
upper spring mount I bent the tab down that clocks/aligns the upper
mount. I put the upper mount in the car clocked as they needed to
be for the new springs. Then in the hole in upper fender well
where the old index tab had gone, I used a small, self tapping screw and
screwed into the upper mount to hold the clock/alignment of the upper
mount. Make sure the upper spring mount is centered when you put the
bolt
in. The bolt should not touch or scratch the spring. I put the car
back together. The springs didn't move,
all is OK.
In short, The after market
springs
even the good ones aren't quite like the factory ones.
Lower spring
mounts. Mine were still good and
tight. I cleaned them up and made sure the
rubber
boots were on correctly. If someone gets
carried away with a grease gun it pops the boots off the ends.
One last
note. The shock towers are not
symmetrical, almost but not quite. The "manufacturers mark"
stamped on the tower goes outboard, towards the outside of the car when
you put it back together. The mark varied over the years and not all the
same supplier. Here is a picture of mine, with the
mark circled in yellow.
Once I replaced the front springs, it was time
to replace the rear. Rear Spring
replacement notes.
Happy Motoring,
VHubbard
Last update Oct 31 2014
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